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Where might this stairway end?

What might I find strolling down that cobblestone street?

Exploring city’s like Florence can be very exciting. However, sometimes getting acquainted with a city can take time. Possibly time we do not have.

Although Florence is a relatively small city, it can sometimes seem like a maze.

For this reason, THC has prepared a suggested orientation walk aimed to help you locate a few of the more important sites this beautiful Renaissance city has to offer. So… put on those virtual walking shoes and get acquainted with the city…..

A local English speaking Florentine resident will walk you through the streets of Florence introducing you to the characteristic neighbourhoods of the city. You’ll see what’s at your doorstep and what you might have to walk a distance to find. You’ll meet local shop keepers, learn their store hours and their specialities. You’ll locate the nearest bank and post office.

My suggested walking/orientation
tour of Florence…

No matter where you are staying in Florence getting to Piazza della Repubblica is easy, just ask your hotel clerk or taxi driver. This is where I suggest we begin this walking tour of Florence. The reason…. There are several great coffee bars in this square (Gilli, Donnini, Giubbe Rosse) all of which are great spots for a quick morning cappuccino and hot pastry before heading out to explore the city. Breakfast Italian style means standing at the bar with the locals, not sitting down at a table. Besides, the latter will cost you over double the price. Italians, unlike north Americans, are typically on the run in the morning. They don’t sit and enjoy a leisurely breakfast. They start their day with an espresso or cappuccino, a hot pastry and a few quick comments with their neighbourhood barista on soccer, politics or whatever hit the news the night before. Then off to work they go. So, when in Rome….. Just stand at the bar, order your drink and pastry, indulge, go to the register, pay (no tips needed) and head out. If, a waiter insists on treating you as a tourist, meaning telling you to sit down.. just say… No Grazie…(No, Thank you). Ho fretta ( O Fr A Tah).. meaning, I’m in a hurry! They won’t insist and you’ll save money.

Once back in the square (with the square to your left and the Savoy hotel to your right) walk down Via Roma for one block. To your right is the Cathedral Square with St. John’s Baptistery, Giotto’s bell tower and the majestic St. Mary of the Flowers Cathedral with Leonardo’s golden ball at the top of its cupola (dome). Those wanting to enter the Cathedral should get there very early, especially during the summer months when the lines can be very long. If, on the other hand, you are not interested in visiting the Cathedral but would simply like to get a glimpse inside (without taking pictures) then go to the side prayer entrance. Go inside, kneel down, say a prayer or two, light a candle or two, get your glimpse inside and quietly leave. This entrance is typically for Italians who go inside to pray and not for the tourist who may be paying to enter the main entrances of some churches to have the liberty of walking around and taking pictures. Again, this is a suggestion for those who only wish to quickly enter, have a glimpse, light a candle and say a prayer. I do not suggest trying to enter and then take pictures from that section as you will have to deal with a guard who will treat you with little respect (justifiably so) as you are in the prayer section. Santa Maria del Fiore Cathedral is free but the Holy Croce (Santa Croce) has a 5.00 euro entrance fee as do other churches in Florence.

Note that Brunelleschi’s doors, the ones that Michelangelo deemed worthy enough to be the doors of paradise, are on the side of the baptistery facing the cathedral.

Also, for those who would like a bird’s eye view of Florence, try climbing the 414 stairs of Giotto’s 277.9 foot high marble pillar bell tower where you can have a closer view of Brunelleschi’s dome and see Leonardo Da Vinci’s golden ball that rests at the top. Or, for those who tire not and want to get some memorable photos of this enchanting Renaissance city why not hike up the 463 stairs leading to the top of the Cathedral. The 6.00 euro fee more than pays for itself in views.

After visiting the Cathedral and square continue straight through the traffic light onto Borgo San Lorenzo. At the end of this short street you will come to the beginning of the Florence street market. The Church of St. Lawrence, San Lorenzo, the oldest church in Florence is on the left. The Romanesque fascade dates back to 1060. This church has a small entrance fee. Behind the church are the famous Medici Chapels where Michelangelo’s Dawn and Dusk and Day and Night are housed. Not to mention the elaborate semi precious stone mosaic work in the chapel. A true must see!

Location: Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini
Hours: open from 8:15 a.m. to 1:50 p.m. as well as the second and fourth Monday and the first, third and fifth Sunday of each month.
Closed on the second and fourth Sunday and first, third and fifth Monday of each month as well as New Year's Day, May 1, Christmas
Entrance fee: € 4,00

Just passed the church at the corner fountain is the beginning of the street market. Here you will find anything and everything. Behind the stalls on either side of the street are a variety shops, mainly leather. Make sure you bargain. Most vendors will go down as much as 30% if you are insistent. About two blocks down, on the right hand side, is the entrance to the indoor central market. Have a peek inside. Although in recent years this market has become somewhat of a tourist market (many stalls becoming very ‘boutiquish’) it is still a very characteristic market where wild boar heads, fresh fish and aromatic cheeses and meats are stylishly displayed. Upstairs is the fruit and vegetable section, well worth a trip up the escalator.

When you are tired of stall shopping and would like to stroll toward the famous Ponte Vecchio (old bridge) to browse for Florentine jewels then just back track to the Piazza della Repubblica. Now, with the Savoy Hotel on your left and the piazza on your right continue up the street for a couple of blocks. On your right hand side, under an ancient vaulted roof with striking columns is the Porcellino (Straw Market). Yet another chance to open your pocket books to buy that unique Florentine handbag or lovely hand stitched tablecloth only to mention a few of the handicrafts sold at this characteristic market. Remember to walk all around the market square so as not to miss Pietro Tacca’s (1612) bronze boar. Legend has it that if you rub the boar’s very shiny nose and drop a coin at its hoof you will certainly return to Florence some day. Needless to say, I did it way back in 1978. I came back in 1979 to make Florence my permanent home!

For those who are not interested in shopping but would like to head to the Uffizi Gallery just walk passed the Porcellino to the first left (there is a Prada shop on the corner), turn and walk to the square (Piazza della Signoria). You will have the city hall (Palazzo Vecchio) in front of you, the famous Revior café to your left and the Loggia dei Lanzi with Cellini’s Persius and Medusa and Giambologna’s Rape of the Sabine Woman to your right.

Opposite the Loggia is the world famous Uffizi art gallery. If you haven’t already made reservations to visit the gallery I suggest you go straight to the reservation office which is to the right of the courtyard about midway between the Loggia and the river (end of the courtyard). Reservations are free of charge. It is well worth booking your time slot in advance as opposed to waiting in the endless lines that you will find between April and October. If you will be in Florence or the neighbouring countryside for a week or so then I suggest making a stop at reservation room number 2 in the courtyard one of your first stops when getting into town. A time slot will surely be available sometime during your stay. If, on the other hand, your visit to Florence is short then I would go online and book reservations either privately with a group. Mercurio (http://www.mercurio-italy.org) is a very reputable agency which offers first class group tours to the Uffizi and the Academy. Note: If you opt to visit the museum on your own and not in a group tour then I suggest renting one of the head sets with the English tape giving historical facts on the more important works of art in the various rooms throughout the gallery. The gallery is very large and can be overwhelming if not visited correctly thus risking not seeing some of the more important and truly breathtaking masterpieces.

Uffizi Hours:
Opened from:
Tuesday to Sunday
Hours: 8.15 - 18.50 (last entrance 16:45)

Closed on:
Monday, 1 May,1 January, 25 December

Once you have located the Uffizi and possibly made your reservations I suggest heading to the Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge). Just back track to the corner (where the Prada shop is), turn left and continue walking up Por Santa Maria. Walk to the traffic light and cross the street. You are now on the bridge. At the middle of the bridge there are inlets on either side great for picture taking. Have a look over the Arno river. Continue walking to the end of the bridge. Cross the street and walk straight ahead along the Via Guicciardini. This boutique ridden street will lead you to the Pitti Palace. If you are feeling the need for a quick lunch (between 12:30 and 2 p.m) then once you hit the first small square on your left (a little church is at the end of the square) turn left into the square and pass the church. Go up the short street to your left. There you will find a small characteristic Florentine trattoria called Bordino on your right. They have great two course hot lunch menu’s for a bargain price (7.00 – 10.00 euro) without beverages. The atmosphere is truly Tuscan, the food is quite good and the clientele is mainly Florentine (the waiters do speak English). If you are not interested in a full lunch but would like to have a good sandwich and a glass of Chianti wine then just before Bordino on the opposite side of the street is L’uva e la volpe a great little wine bar.

Getting back on track, only a block or so up the Via Guicciardini you will find the majestic Pitti Palace to your left. The gardens of the palace (Boboli Gardens) are worth a visit as is the silver museum, the porcelain museum and the costume gallery all located within the palace. Entrance fee to the gardens and museums is 8,00 euro.

Museum and Garden Hours:
Every day from 8.15 to 16.30 in November, December, January and February
Every day from 8.15 to 17.30 in March
Every day from 8.15 to 18.30 in April, May, September and October
Every day from 8.15 to 19.30 in June, July and August

Closed on:
1st and last Monday of each month

After a stroll through the gardens and a visit inside the palace it’s time to venture back across the river to two (actually three) more not to miss spots in town. The first stop is the Holy Cross Church (Santa Croce). Let’s head back down Via Guicciardini and back toward the Loggia dei Lanzi in the piazza della Signoria. Once back in the square we want to take the small street which runs between the Uffizi Gallery and the City Hall (Palazzo Vecchio) where the copy of David is located. The name of the street is Via della Ninna. Cross the parallel street and continue straight down Via dei Neri. This is a nice shopping street with a great English bookstore on the left hand side of the first block. Follow this street until you arrive to Via dei Benci (approximately 3 blocks). Turn left on Via Dei Benci. There is a good osteria (Osteria dei Benci) on the corner to keep in mind. Follow Via Dei Benci for a few blocks until you see the gothic Cathedral of the Holy Cross and its beautiful square on your right.

This is a must see church as it holds a wealth of history as well as well as some very famous funeral monuments; Michelangelo’s and Galileo’s to name two. The five euro entrance fee is well worth visiting the treasures inside. I suggest dropping a coin in the audio history box located within the church. Push English, stand back and listen to the audio guide illustrating the more important works found in the cathedral.

Leaving Santa Croce walk straight through the square to Borgo Dei Greci, a street directly located in front of the Church at the far end of the square. This street will take you back into Piazza della Signoria. From the piazza turn right onto the Via Calzaiouli. This is a pedestrian only street located down the block from Revoir (the outdoor café). There are a number of boutiques as well as the big department store Coin along this street. Midway down the Via Calzaiouli on the left hand side is the lovely church of Orsanmichele . It was built in 1336 as a market and grain store. It later became the church of the various trade guilds of Florence. The niches on the outer walls of the church house the patron saints of the various guilds. Many of the statues were completed during the Renaissance by masters like Donatello and Della Robbia. It is without a doubt worth a peek, inside and out. Occasionally, during the summer months classical music concerts are held inside.

Entrance to the church is free. It is open Tuesdays through Sundays from 10 am to 5 p.m. and closed on Mondays.

At the end of Via Calzaiouli you will once again find yourself in the Cathedral Square. Now, last but certainly not least, are two final spots to visit … the Accademia (David) and Caribe (a popular Sicilian ice cream shop). Both are located on Via dei Ricasoli. Walk through the cathedral square (cathedral on your right, the doors of paradise on your left). Cross the street and turn right. Go up to Via dei Ricasoli (2 blocks) and turn left. You will walk about three blocks up the street. The first stop is Caribe. There will be an ice cream cone outside to let you know you have arrived at your destination. I suggest getting one of their Sicilian coffee ices if you are not in the mood for a real gelato! Then stroll on down to the Accademia where David will be awaiting in all his glory.

Location: Via Ricasoli, 58-60
Hours: Open from 8:15 a.m. to 6:50 p.m. Tuesdays through Sunday
Closed on Mondays, January 1, May 1, and December 25
Entrance fee € 6,50 (€ 9,50 when temporary exhibitions are included)

Now, if this quick walking tour of Florence has tired you out then I suggest a quick trip back to your hotel, feet up, relax and get in the mood for a memorable night out at one of the many restaurants or trattorias the city has to offer.

May I add that my suggested walking tour is a very basic orientation walk through the historical center and there are many other places within walking distance to see and visit. The Santo Spirito Church in the Oltra Arno district on the Palazzo Pitti side of the river is also worth a visit.

Its square is home to a quaint antique market held the second Sunday of every month. This area, known as the San Frediano district, is one of the oldest districts of Florence and where many artisans have their woodworking and antique shops. There are also a handful of really fabulous restaurants on this side of town. Il Guscio, via dell’Orto, Tuscan food with an elegant flair and fabulous wine list, is one. A typical rustic osteria, housed in a wine cellar, which has been around for over 30 years, Il Cantinone, Via Santo Spirito is another. The church of St. Maria dei Carmine is also in this area. It houses the Brancacci Chapel (Cappella Brancacci) with masterpieces by Filippino Lippi and Masaccio.

Last but not least is a hike up to Piazzale Michelangelo. For those who don’t like to walk, bus number 13 from the Station or from the bus stop at Ponte Delle Grazie (the bridge after the Ponte Vecchio) on the Palazzo Pitti side of the river will take you up to Michelangelo Square which offers spectacular views of the city below. Bus tickets can be bought at any newsstand or tobacco shop having the ATAF orange bus sign outside. Tickets cost 1.20 euro and are valid for one hour and 10 minutes riding time on any buses (meaning you can jump on and off as many buses as you want within that time span). For those who do not ride buses, taxis (055-4242) can be called. There is also a taxi stand near the Alfredo Restaurant on the Via Dei Bardi just passed the Ponte Vecchio bridge on the way to the Ponte Delle Grazie bridge. For bike lovers, ask hotel clerk about bike rental offices near you.

Again, this itinerary is only to give one an idea of what can be seen in Florence in a day or two. So, what are you waiting for…get out there and conquer the city.

Have Fun,

Cindy
Tuscanholidayconsultants.com

p.s. Be sure to put the Bargello Museum on your itinerary. It ranks up there with the Uffizi, Academy and Medici Chapels! Giovanni Bologna’s Mercury is housed there.

Via del Proconsolo 4 (corner of Via Ghibellina)
Open from 8:15 a.m. – 6:00 p.m. Monday through Sunday
Closed only on the 2nd and 4th Monday of the month and May 1.
Entrance fee: € 4,00

A Few Helpful Tips:

Exchanging Money
You can find ATM and cash machines throughout the city. By taking cash from the ATM you will receive the bank’s exchange rate for the day which is usually the lowest.

Exchange booths usually take a hefty commission. It is best to avoid changing money at the various money exchange booths in the city.

For best exchange rates, use:

American Express office: Via Dante Alighieri 22r Tel. O55 50 981. Open Mon. through Friday 9am to 5:30pm; Sat. 9am to 12:30pm.

Or a bank:

General opening hours: Mon. through Fri. 8:20am to 1:20pm; Afternoons from 2:35pm to 3:35pm.

Telephones
The prepaid international phone cards (with the scratch-off PIN numbers) should work from all public telephones. For charge card and collect calls, you can reach an ATT operator by dialing 800 172 444, a SPRINT operator by dialing 800 172 405, and an MCI operator by dialing 800 905 825 – at Euro-operated coin phones, you must insert a coin to access these numbers, but your coin will be returned once your call has been completed.

The phone cards (schede telefoniche) that you put into a slot on the telephone are easy to use, but are best for making calls within Italy--prepaid international phone cards are better for calling internationally. Remember to tear off the perforated corner before using the card. If there are not sufficient funds on the card, the call will not go through.

Phone cards for €5,00 or €10,00 are available for purchase at bars, newspaper stands and tobacco shops.